Visiting The Eagle’s Nest


Wednesday 12th August

Miles: 16

The three of us took our leave of Austria this morning, making the short cycle across the border to Germany, stopping at Freimannlehen, where we would be making the trip to see The Eagle’s Nest, AKA Hitler’s holiday house.

Entering Germany.

As we were pedalling along I was contemplating my feelings on going to visit The Eagle’s Nest. Is it OK to seek some sort of connection with people who did terrible things (eg. by visiting a place which they also liked to visit)? I’m not sure. I didn’t think it was wrong to visit The Eagle’s Nest, but I didn’t exactly feel great about it either.

After setting up our tent we began the walk up the mountain. We walked past the ruins of a building where Hitler apparently made many important decisions, and (according to Steve) where the famous failed assassination attempt was made which resulted in Hitler’s trousers being blown off. Just a few foundation stones of the house remained. It felt a bit spooky.

An hour in we came across a restaurant and had lunch. The waitresses were dressed in traditional German outfits, Eric and Steve were drinking German beer, there was trombone-centric German “oompah” type music playing, and I was eating wurst and sauerkraut. We were tourists in Germany, and it felt great.

Full of delicious German food, we decided that instead of walking the remaining 1000 metre ascent we would just take the bus instead. A good decision.

One very long, steep bus ride later we were embarked (along with a huge crowd of tourists). We walked along a tunnel which was carved right into the mountain and took a lift up to the very top.

Most of the house has now been turned into a restaurant. Apparently you can still go on a tour of some of the house, but you need special permission.

The views are absolutely stunning.

image image
The history aside, it’s worth a visit just for the natural beauty.

image image image I had thought that this visit would have quite a solemn sort of feel, but it was like any other busy tourist attraction. There were kids running around everywhere, the odd selfie stick being waved around (I’m not a fan of selfies at the best of times, let alone a #Hitler’spadselfie) and the ubiquitous ice cream stand (this I could get on board with). This atmosphere banished any ghostly Hitler-ish feelings I might have otherwise had. We just enjoyed the view.

image image The only Hitler-related thing I was thinking, was: Hitler would surely not have approved of all these multi-ethnic tourists. In your face, Hitler.

A combination of walking and the bus got us back to our campsite. It turned out that there were no supermarkets around so we had to eat out again. We tried to keep it cheap but ended up ordering a giant portion of apple strudel each. I blame Steve.


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